L'EPICURIO RISTORANTE,

There are humble origins and there are humble origins. Starting off as a little meat market and gourmet shop on Federal Hill, L'Epicurio used to be the place to get your Italian taste treats (mmm, Tuscan sausage), but today it is considered one of the best restaurants in Providence, if not in the nation, having earned mentions in both Esquire magazine and the New York Times. Part of the allure is the restaurant's ambiance. Burgundy brocade chair backs and maroon walls with gold spiral accents set the tone, while greenery tops a partition with cherub statues at each end. Owners Tom and Roseanne Buckner also have kept the ambiance subdued, fancy but not stuffy, and with their new wood grill, they are now able to offer such house specialties as veal sausage and pork loin ($18.95), which we tried on a recent visit. The two-inch-thick tenderloin was pan-seared rather than grilled, to keep it juicy, and served medium, as was requested. For dessert, we had the chocolate tort ($7.50), whose rich, runny filling was encased in a thick, buttery shell flanked by twin excesses -- a small scoop of vanilla ice cream and a dollop of whipped cream.

Full review.